“Mug Shots”
From 2009 – 2011, I wrote a column for Louisville Eccentric Observer (aka LEO Weekly) called “Mug Shots.”
If I recall, it was Cary Stemle’s idea (ironically, we now both write for Food & Dining Magazine), but alas I did not survive Cary’s humorless successor, who somehow was made uncomfortable by my recurring pattern of mercilessly abusing Anheuser-Busch/AB InBev.
The column reprinted here inspired a promotion between my New Albanian Brewing Company and Brendan’s, a pleasant but long since departed pub a block down from Bluegrass Brewing Company’s flagship location on Shelbyville Rd. A preview of this event follows the mug shot, as originally published at my Potable Curmudgeon blog.
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Beer: Why not for breakfast?
You don’t need to climb to the top of the nearest mountain for a consultation with the resident guru to know this: you can’t drink all day if you don’t start in the morning.
I’m not referring to hair of the dog (lower case), although Hair of the Dog (upper case) remains a respected small-batch, high-gravity Oregon brewer of beers that just might succeed in curing a hangover when judiciously consumed during the morning hours after a long evening’s debauchery.
But this isn’t where I’m proposing to go this week.
Given that even the most amateur of drinkers can imbibe all night, eventually see the sun rise, and then trundle off to Waffle Steak for a bleary prelude to crashing, Mr. Mug Shot is all about vigorously raising the bar, and as such, it is my pleasure to inform readers that revolutionary plans are afoot to stage the first local breakfast food and beer pairing – and to do it chronologically, in the morning, at breakfast, and not later in the day.
Just bring a designated driver, and leave Count Chocula at home, although a purely redundant case might be made for corn flakes and American cream ale.
Okay: To be honest, I’ve no idea whether this pairing idea is original, or if it has been done previously. It probably has, although I take pride in the ability of my coterie of friends and customers to plumb the length and breadth of fermentables, and foodstuffs, to uncover crazed new combinations, and their suggestions (below) already form the basis of a germinating concept.
Moreover, the overarching aim in establishing food and beer pairings for breakfast is to liberate beer from its hackneyed “something ice-cold to drink after work” tradition.
I’ll never forget arriving in Munich after an overnight train trip from the Belgian Riviera, and strolling on a warm summer’s morning down to the Augustiner restaurant and beer hall on the main pedestrian street.
There, surrounded by people pausing for a bite (and a nip) on their way to work, I indulged in the classic Bavarian breakfast of champions: Delicately seasoned Weisswurst (white sausage) meant for extraction from the casing with a fork, slathered with sweet mustard, accompanied with a crusty roll, and washed down with tall, cool Hefe Weizen – Bavarian-style wheat ale, redolent of fruit and cloves, and always a reliable option at 8:00 a.m.
That’s one irrefutable way of looking at beer with breakfast. Here are a few others, as contributed by my friends during a recent Facebook discussion.
Forget traditional beverages. Instead of coffee, drink Great Divide Yeti Espresso Stout. Omit the Mimosa, and substitute Lindemans Peche (sweetened peach) Lambic. Rather than apple juice, turn to Unibroue Ephemere.
As a rule, Belgian Wit ales are spiced with orange peel, so chuck the OJ. Tea? Get a growler of Cumberland Brewery’s Yerba Mate Pale Ale, and while you’re at it, grab any craft brew that uses Cascades as a finishing hop and save on grapefruit juice.
Kippers (delightful smoky herring) served on dense Scandinavian flatbread, with Baltic Porter (Okocim, Zwiec, Sinebrychoff), or pickled herring and Celebrator Doppelbock.
For a salmon, caper, onion, mushroom and cheese omelet, I’d like to try hoppy, herbal Northern German pilsner like Jever.
Stone Smoked Porter or Schlenkerla Rauchbier Marzen to go with any spicy sausage, whether patties or links.
If Dark Horse Blueberry Stout is available or a Maple Porter can be found, use one of them for a reduction, drench pancakes with it, and accompany with authentic, funky, sour Belgian Lambic to cut the sweetness.
Dunkel Weizen (dark German wheat ale) with Eggs Benedict.
Beer batter biscuits, sausage gravy and malty American Amber.
Waffles with cardamom apples and a Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout.
Yummy Tripel Karmeliet with French toast.
Goat cheese frittata with a malty French Biere de Garde. If the cheese itself is stinky, switch the beer to a hop bomb: Hoptimus, anyone?
You’ll notice that of these suggestions, bacon has been left out. That’s because it should be obvious that bacon goes with any beer, and any beer goes with bacon. Stay tuned for details, and send me your dream breakfast and beer pairings.
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This Saturday, January 16, 2010: Beer Brunch at Brendan’s, with NABC beers
In November, I devoted my LEO column to beer and breakfast food pairings:
Moreover, the overarching aim in establishing food and beer pairings for breakfast is to liberate beer from its hackneyed “something ice-cold to drink after work” tradition.
I’m happy to report that Brendan’s Public House (3921 Shelbyville Road in St. Matthews) is running with the beer & breakfast concept this coming Saturday, January 16, in the form of a Beer Brunch with some of NABC’s beers, and I’m really excited about the possibilities even if we’ll be doing it after 12.00 noon.
Gotta walk before you can run, you know.
Beer Brunch at Brendan’s starts at 1:00 p.m. and will last until 3:00 p.m. The menu will consist of four courses, with three listed below and one yet to be determined. The menu thus far:
Tomatillo/Hoptimus Huevos Rancheros
Solidarity Baltic Porter Glazed Country Ham with Chipotle cheddar grits
Beaks Best Bread Pudding
Brendan’s is limiting reservations at 25, with the cost being $30 for the food, beer, and stimulating conversation with NABC personnel in attendance, including me, otherwise known as The Publican. One or more of NABC’s brewers will be there, too, although I can’t tell you which ones at this time.
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Recap: Photos tell the story of the Brendan’s/NABC Brunch (Saturday, January 16)
